Costume Designer Eimer Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh on Crafting Wild Horse Nine
How vintage aesthetics and character-driven design define the look of the new spy drama.
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1From Aran Knits to Espionage
Costume designer Eimer Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh follows her viral success with The Banshees of Inisherin by tackling the distinct 1970s aesthetic of Wild Horse Nine. While her previous work sparked a global trend for Irish woolens, this new project shifts focus toward the complex, contrasting visual worlds of Santiago and Easter Island.
2Visualizing Political Tensions
Set against the 1973 Chilean coup, the film contrasts the dark, militaristic atmosphere of the capital with the vibrant, isolated beauty of Rapa Nui. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh utilized extensive photojournalism archives to ground the characters in their specific historical moment, ensuring the costumes reflected both the political dread and the escapist island environment.
3Subverting Spy Movie Tropes
The production team intentionally avoided the clichéd gray tailoring and trench coats typically associated with Cold War espionage. Instead, they developed a look for Sam Rockwell and John Malkovich that highlights their characters' inability to blend in, portraying them as out-of-place Americans rather than polished, professional assets of the CIA directorate.
4The Global Scavenger Hunt
Sourcing authentic period clothing required a massive international effort after local markets in Santiago proved insufficient. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh eventually accessed private archives in Chile and scoured London’s Portobello Road to find original 1970s garments. These vintage pieces served as essential blueprints for the film’s wardrobe, providing necessary historical texture and authenticity.
5Collaborating with John Malkovich
Working with John Malkovich presented a unique challenge, as the actor is a noted fashion connoisseur with his own design experience. He actively participated in the fitting process, discussing technical details like canvas interfacings and tailoring evolution. His deep engagement with the wardrobe helped refine the specific, eccentric persona of his character.
6Defining the Character Look
A key espresso-brown knit polo with a retro striped collar became the anchor for Sam Rockwell’s character. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh identified this vintage find as a pivotal piece that defined his sartorial identity. The garment successfully moved the character away from standard spy aesthetics, giving him a more relaxed, stylish, and enigmatic presence.
7Authenticity for Student Activists
The costumes for the student-activist characters were designed to capture the earthy, romantic defiance of early 1970s South American youth. By utilizing high-waist flares, crochet vests, and peasant blouses, the design team aimed for a grounded, realistic look that avoided the feeling of a costume party, emphasizing both practicality and political spirit.
8Fashion and Film Dialogue
The film’s aesthetic resonates with contemporary runway trends, mirroring styles seen in recent collections from Prada and Chloé. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh finds it flattering when her work influences mainstream fashion, noting that the line between cinema and daily style is increasingly porous. She remains focused on creating looks that resonate beyond the screen.
Original article: Vogue — Costume Designer Eimer Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh on Crafting Wild Horse Nine