Formafantasma appointed creative directors of historic Santa Maria Novella
Design duo to curate evolution of 800-year-old Florentine apothecary brand
1Historic brand meets contemporary design
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in 1221 by Dominican friars, has appointed design studio Formafantasma as creative directors. The Florentine institution, known for botanical-based fragrances and body products, maintains eight centuries of continuous operation. Designers Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin will oversee products, packaging, retail spaces and communications, working with internal specialists rather than imposing external aesthetics.
2Material knowledge as creative foundation
Formafantasma's approach centers on Santa Maria Novella's accumulated material heritage - formulations, techniques and spaces refined over generations. The studio views this not as static history but as active design material, questioning what elements remain relevant today. This aligns with the designers' established practice of investigating production systems and material histories, seen in previous projects examining electronics waste and wood industries.
3Curatorial rather than rebrand approach
Unlike typical creative director roles focused on visual reinvention, Formafantasma explicitly rejects rebranding. Their mandate involves examining how Santa Maria Novella's various expressions - from product formulations to retail environments - can communicate more coherently while respecting heritage. The designers will function as curators, working with the brand's safeguarded knowledge rather than overwriting it with contemporary trends.
4Eight centuries of continuous relevance
The collaboration's core challenge involves identifying what has maintained Santa Maria Novella's cultural position since 1221 and applying those principles forward. This requires analyzing how historical communication methods, product development processes and spatial designs can evolve without reducing heritage to superficial styling. The brand's longevity stems from adaptive continuity rather than periodic reinvention.
5Multidisciplinary design integration
Formafantasma's appointment reflects Santa Maria Novella's recognition of design as holistic practice beyond surface aesthetics. The studio's background in exhibition design, spatial planning and material research positions them to connect product development, packaging, retail experience and brand communication into a unified system. This systems-thinking approach mirrors the apothecary's historical integration of cultivation, production and distribution.
6Heritage as living archive
The designers approach Santa Maria Novella as an evolving archive, where historical formulations and techniques inform contemporary applications. Their methodology involves interrogating which traditional elements retain functional and cultural value versus those requiring adaptation. This contrasts with conventional heritage branding that often treats history as static reference material rather than active ingredient.
7Designing continuity in luxury
In an industry where heritage brands frequently oscillate between radical rebrands and nostalgic revivalism, Santa Maria Novella's strategy represents a third path. Formafantasma's curatorial role demonstrates how design can mediate between preservation and progress, particularly for brands with deep material histories. The collaboration may establish new paradigms for managing continuity in long-established luxury houses.
8Industry implications
This partnership signals a maturation in how heritage brands approach creative leadership, valuing material intelligence over stylistic trends. As consumers increasingly prioritize authenticity and sustainability, Formafantasma's research-driven, systems-oriented methodology may influence how other historic brands navigate contemporary markets. The collaboration's success could redefine creative direction beyond surface aesthetics to encompass material heritage and production knowledge.