Coperni Shuts Down Following Financial Dispute with Distributor Tomorrow
The innovative Parisian fashion label ceases operations after eight years of experimental design work.
1Operations Cease Permanently
Parisian fashion label Coperni is officially closing its doors after eight years of operation. Founders Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant confirmed that the French entity Coperni SAS will cease all business activities. This decision follows months of unresolved friction regarding unpaid sums and licensing terms with their distributor and shareholder, Tomorrow.
2Dispute Triggers Shutdown
The conflict escalated after Tomorrow terminated its licensing agreement due to outstanding debts. Coperni sought commercial court protection in Paris earlier this year to navigate the crisis. Despite attempts by the founders to buy back the brand and regain control, financial strain and governance disputes ultimately made continuing the business impossible.
3Ownership Complications Arise
Complications deepened significantly following the acquisition of Tomorrow Ltd in March by Progetto 11, the holding vehicle for The Level Group. This change in corporate structure hindered the founders' efforts to resolve the situation. The mounting pressure eventually led to the abrupt cancellation of the label's planned Fall/Winter 2026 runway show.
4Spray-On Fabric Innovation
Coperni gained global attention during its Spring/Summer 2023 show when Bella Hadid wore a dress sprayed directly onto her body. Developed with Fabrican, the liquid contained fibers that solidified into a flexible textile upon contact. This performance highlighted the brand's commitment to merging material science with traditional high-fashion runway presentations.
5Robotics and Tech Integration
The Fall/Winter 2023 show featured five Boston Dynamics Spot robots interacting with models on the runway. Inspired by a classic fable, the performance explored the relationship between humans and intelligent machines. One robot even assisted a model by removing her jacket, marking an unusual intersection between advanced robotics and couture.
6Aerospace Material Experiments
For the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, the brand unveiled the Air Swipe Bag, created with researcher Ioannis Michaloudis. Composed of 99% air and 1% silica aerogel, the accessory weighed only 33 grams. This material, typically associated with NASA research into capturing cosmic dust, demonstrated the label's interest in pushing boundaries of physical weight.
7Consumer Tech Nostalgia
Coperni frequently reinterpreted consumer technology, such as a 3D-printed handbag that functioned as a portable CD player. In 2025, they collaborated with Bandai to release a Tamagotchi Swipe Case, integrating a digital pet into their signature bag silhouette. These designs gave familiar 1990s electronic devices an unexpected second life as luxury fashion.
8Legacy of Radical Design
While the label's future has ended, its history of collaborations with scientists and engineers remains a defining legacy. From liquid textiles to silicone-printed accessories, the founders prioritized innovation over tradition. Meyer and Vaillant expressed optimism for future creative endeavors, noting that their passion for reinventing fashion remains a primary focus.