Wild Horse Nine Costume Design and 1970s Aesthetic
Costume designer Eimer Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh details the specific accessories defining the film's dandyish 1970s characters.
1Western Aesthetic in Rapa Nui
Martin McDonagh’s new film Wild Horse Nine blends Western tropes with a 1970s setting on Easter Island. John Malkovich and Sam Rockwell portray CIA operatives plotting a coup in Chile while exploring stone moai heads. The film incorporates iconic Western accessories like turquoise belt buckles and cowboy hats to define their characters.
2The Power of Costume Details
Costume designer Eimer Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh emphasizes that accessories are essential for completing a character's physical presence. She notes that adding specific items like Cuban heels, hats, and rings changes how actors stand and move. This deliberate styling creates a distinct swagger that helps actors embody their roles during the production process.
3Sourcing Authentic Period Pieces
The film’s wardrobe features a mix of custom-made items and vintage finds. London milliner Sophie Lamb crafted Sam Rockwell’s custom cowboy hat, while his Navajo-style belt buckle was sourced from Etsy. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh also frequented London’s Portobello Road to find authentic pieces that capture the specific dandyish quality of the 1970s era.
4Defining the Dandyish Look
The characters are styled with a focus on brash, peacocking masculinity typical of the decade. Steve Buscemi wears Coblens glasses with gradated lenses, while John Malkovich sports a pork-pie hat. These choices reflect a heightened reality, mocking the big egos of the CIA operatives while maintaining a visually striking, cohesive period aesthetic.
5Significance of Chunky Rings
Chunky signet rings serve as a recurring motif for almost every character in the film, including Tom Waits. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh drew inspiration from her own childhood memories of men wearing such jewelry in the 1970s. These rings distinguish the characters from the modern, gray-suited image typically associated with the American intelligence establishment.
6Curating Specific Character Pieces
Specific items were selected to ground the characters in their individual personalities. John Malkovich’s gold ring featuring a black onyx stone was purchased at the British department store Liberty. This attention to detail ensures that even the smallest accessories contribute to the film's heightened, slightly surreal atmosphere created by director Martin McDonagh.
7Balancing Stylistic Overkill
The design process involved careful editing to avoid visual clutter. Ní Mhaoldomhnaigh considered adding a chain to Sam Rockwell’s outfit but ultimately decided against it, fearing it would look like decorating a Christmas tree. This restraint was necessary to maintain the balance between the character's flamboyant style and the film's overall visual narrative.
8Legacy of Period Styling
Wild Horse Nine highlights how costume design functions as a storytelling tool rather than mere decoration. By utilizing authentic vintage accessories and custom tailoring, the production team successfully captures the specific cultural mood of the 1970s. These details remain crucial for establishing the heightened, ego-driven nature of the film's central characters.
Original article: GQ — Wild Horse Nine Costume Design and 1970s Aesthetic