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China's Manufacturing Shift Challenges Europe's Luxury and Auto Industries

From Gucci sneakers to German cars, China is moving up the value chain.

Fortune | FORTUNE3 min

1Gucci's Chinese-made sneakers

Gucci's new $1,000 sneakers break with its 105-year tradition by being made in China, not Italy. The fashion house chose a Chinese manufacturer for its technological know-how and quality standards, not cheap labor. This marks a significant shift in perception of Chinese manufacturing. While other products remain Italian-made, the move signals China's entry into high-end consumer goods.

2The second China Shock

Economists describe China's current export wave as the second China Shock. Unlike the early 2000s flood of cheap clothes and electronics, China now exports EVs and industrial machinery competing with European manufacturers. Chinese factories have gained technical expertise to produce luxury goods, as seen with Gucci. This comes as luxury sales have halved in three years, forcing price cuts.

3Following East Asia's path

China is replicating South Korea, Taiwan and Japan's economic trajectory, moving from basic goods to high-end products at unprecedented scale. Much know-how came from European companies like Volkswagen, which trained Chinese suppliers since the 1980s. As capabilities grew, Chinese manufacturers naturally progressed to developing their own brands for better margins, becoming competitors.

4Germany's industrial decline

Germany faces the strongest impact as China's exports increasingly resemble its own - machinery and cars. Since 2019, this overlap grew fastest for Germany among EU nations. Meanwhile, German exports to China fell 9.7% in 2023 while imports rose 8.8%. Car exports to China alone dropped by a third, with Volkswagen's China deliveries down 36.6% in Q2 2023.

5EVs erase German advantage

The shift to electric vehicles nullifies Germany's combustion engine expertise. China excels in batteries and software - the new performance benchmarks. The EU imposed tariffs up to 35.3% on Chinese EVs, but Chinese brands still outsold Japanese ones in Europe for the first time in May 2023. Volkswagen responded by cutting models and 100,000 jobs - its biggest restructuring ever.

6The Swiss watch parallel

China's rise mirrors Japan's 1970s quartz watch disruption that nearly destroyed Swiss watchmaking. Survivors like Omega retreated to the luxury segment, but the industry shrank from 90,000 to 30,000 employees. Similarly, Europe may only retain the very top market segments against Chinese competition, with mass-market brands like Volkswagen unable to fully transition upmarket.

7Wage advantage persists

Despite moving upmarket, China maintains cost advantages. Average manufacturing wages were $629/month in 2022 versus $1,341 in Taiwan and $2,075 in South Korea. This allows Chinese manufacturers to compete on both quality and price. European companies now face former students turned competitors while still relying on Chinese production efficiency.

8Collaboration as strategy

Some European firms are partnering with Chinese manufacturers instead of competing. Gucci combines Italian branding with Chinese production, while Volkswagen invested $706 million in Chinese EV maker Xpeng in 2023. These collaborations acknowledge China's manufacturing ascendancy while attempting to maintain European brand value in changing market dynamics.

Original article: Fortune | FORTUNE — China's Manufacturing Shift Challenges Europe's Luxury and Auto Industries