Inside the First Concours d'Élégance for Vintage Timepieces
Collectors gathered in Geneva to judge rare watches based on history and artistry.
1A New Horological Tradition
Inspired by automotive Concours d’Élégance events, auctioneer Aurel Bacs and Vacheron Constantin launched the first-ever competition for vintage timepieces. Held at the Hôtel Président in Geneva, the event drew 550 submissions, which were narrowed down to 34 finalists. This gathering marked a significant shift in how collectors celebrate historical watchmaking excellence.
2Rigorous Judging Criteria
A jury of 14 experts, including Ben Clymer and Nick Foulkes, evaluated timepieces across seven distinct categories. Judges assessed watches based on nine specific criteria, including authenticity, rarity, provenance, and emotional dimension. This structured approach ensured that every winning piece represented a pinnacle of both technical achievement and historical significance.
3The Chronograph Surprise
The Chronographs category featured rare wristwatches like the 1940 ref. 4072, yet a 1929 yellow gold pocket watch claimed victory. The audience audibly gasped at the result, highlighting a potential resurgence in the appreciation of pocket watches. The winning piece featured a pristine white enamel dial with a classic up-down register configuration.
4History Through Provenance
The Métiers d’Art winner carried a remarkable history involving King Alexander I of Yugoslavia. The watch was worn during the king's 1934 assassination and later smuggled out of the country by the owner's family. Such stories of survival and heritage added profound layers of meaning to the competition's technical evaluation process.
5Modernizing Maritime Precision
The Chronomètre Royal category, originally designed for maritime navigation, saw a 1976 ref. 2215 take the prize. Despite the brand's history of observatory trials, this modern iteration featured diamond-set indices and a casual aesthetic. The owner noted he wears the watch with jeans, signaling a shift toward versatile, everyday luxury.
6Complications and Rarity
In the Complications category, the 'Don Pancho' wristwatch from 1940 emerged as the winner. Once the world's most complicated wristwatch, this piece features a minute repeater and retrograde date. It previously sold for approximately $740,000 in 2019, underscoring the immense market value and technical complexity inherent in these historic horological treasures.
7Revelatory Design Discoveries
The Design category winner, a unique 1957 ref. 6213 world timer, surprised even seasoned experts like Ben Clymer. Based on Louis Cottier’s system, the watch remained largely unknown until this competition. The owner’s son shared the story of his father tracking down this rare piece after years of dedicated searching and research.
8Legacy of the Concours
The Best of Show award went to a rare platinum ref. 6448, the last minute-repeating reference produced by the brand for nearly 30 years. As the inaugural event, this Concours established a new format for watch appreciation. Future iterations will likely expand, potentially evolving into multi-brand events similar to automotive industry standards.
Original article: GQ — Inside the First Concours d'Élégance for Vintage Timepieces