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India's avocado revolution: From 'dog fruit' to booming industry

How Bollywood and Israeli tech transformed India's avocado market

BBC News3 min

1The 'dog fruit' transformation

Fifteen years ago, avocados were so undervalued in India that ripe fruit would fall and be eaten by dogs, earning them the nickname 'dog fruit'. Today, they've become a lucrative crop. The turning point came in 2011 when Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty publicly endorsed avocados for skincare, causing prices to double overnight. Cottanad Plantations, which initially grew avocados only as shade trees for coffee, has now dedicated 40 acres to avocado cultivation, harvesting 10-15 tonnes last year with plans to quadruple production.

2Supply-demand imbalance creates opportunity

India's avocado market shows a significant gap between supply and demand, importing 15,000 tonnes annually while producing only 8,000-9,000 tonnes domestically. Traditional crops like coffee and pepper have suffered from climate change, making avocado diversification attractive. Farmers are adopting modern techniques learned from South African experts, including raised beds and specialized planting methods to combat root diseases that previously limited production.

3Chefs' dilemma: Local vs imported

While demand grows, Mumbai restaurants like Veronica's still prefer imported avocados for consistent quality in flavor, texture and size. Executive chef Hussain Shahzad notes seasonal variability in Indian-grown fruit, though he actively seeks to support local agriculture. This preference for imports highlights the quality challenge facing domestic producers, even as restaurants express strong interest in sourcing indigenous ingredients as they improve.

4Israeli technology transforms Indian orchards

Harshit Godha's Indo-Israel Avocado Nursery has supplied 18,000 Hass and Pinkerton variety plants since 2017. Israeli techniques prove particularly valuable in India due to similar climate challenges - Israel grows avocados on 13,000 hectares with minimal rainfall. Godha emphasizes that commercial orchards require completely different approaches from traditional shade-planting, including proper rootstock selection, grafting, and aggressive pruning to maintain harvestable tree heights.

5The pollination puzzle

Avocado cultivation presents unique biological challenges. Trees can't easily self-pollinate - farmers must plant complementary varieties adjacent to each other, timing female and male flowering phases precisely. Godha notes this single factor often determines orchard success: 'This botanical detail separates highly profitable orchards from those that fail in reality.' Mismanagement leads to complete crop failure regardless of irrigation technology.

6Domestic research breeds new varieties

Dr. Ganeshan Karunakaran at IIHR Bengaluru has spent 25 years developing standardized Indian avocado varieties like Arka Supreme. Current challenges include genetic variability in backyard trees flooding markets with inconsistent fruit. The research aims to provide farmers with uniform, high-yielding planting material to compete with imports and meet growing domestic demand for reliable quality.

7From shade trees to cash crop

Avocados' journey in India reflects broader agricultural transformation. Originally planted merely as coffee shade trees, they've become primary income sources for plantations like Cottanad. The shift required complete overhaul of cultivation methods - from spacing and bed preparation to disease management. Farmers now view avocados as long-term investments, with orchards taking 6-7 years to reach full production capacity.

8A model for agricultural modernization

India's avocado boom demonstrates how celebrity influence, imported technology, and domestic research can combine to create new agricultural value. The industry's growth provides a template for diversifying beyond traditional crops vulnerable to climate change. With proper cultivation techniques and standardized varieties, avocados could become a major export commodity, following the path of other successfully commercialized crops in India's agricultural history.

Original article: BBC News — India's avocado revolution: From 'dog fruit' to booming industry