Brifing

Awkwafina Explores Asian American Culinary Heritage in New Apple TV Series

Nora Lum investigates immigrant food history and family legacy in an eight-episode culinary journey.

2 sources3 min

1Personal Culinary Quest

Nora Lum, known as Awkwafina, stars in the new Apple TV series, Awkwafina: The Unlikely Cook. The eight-episode show follows the actor as she explores her family’s legacy, specifically the Cantonese restaurant Lum’s, which her great-grandfather operated in Flushing, Queens, from 1953 until 1982. She admits to having limited cooking skills.

2Cross-Country Food Exploration

The series features a cross-country journey through various Asian American communities. Lum visits San Francisco’s historic Chinatown to cook with chef Martin Yan, travels to Texas for a barbecue-focused road trip with comedian Jimmy O. Yang, and works at the Golden Dragon dim sum restaurant in Los Angeles to gain experience.

3Reviving Family History

A central element of the show is Lum’s attempt to revive her family’s restaurant, Lum’s, through a pop-up event in Manhattan’s Little Italy. She serves classic dishes like orange chicken and barbecue beef to friends and family, reflecting on how her ancestors adapted traditional recipes to fit American tastes over time.

4Preserving Immigrant Entrepreneurship

The show highlights the challenges faced by mom-and-pop shops and Chinatowns, particularly following the pandemic. Lum focuses on how the younger generation is working to keep these cultural hubs alive. She emphasizes that these restaurants represent a fascinating story of belonging and acculturation rather than just simple business ventures.

5Koreatown’s Cultural Evolution

Lum reflects on the development of Manhattan’s Koreatown, which emerged in the late 1970s. Once a small area with a bookstore and few restaurants, it has transformed into a 24-hour entertainment hub. She notes the shift in demographics at spots like BCD Tofu House, where non-Korean customers now represent a majority.

6Community-Driven Local Economies

During filming, Lum highlights establishments that balance cultural preservation with modern needs, such as Phoenix Palace in Manhattan. This restaurant supports local elders and sources ingredients from neighborhood businesses like the 1925-era porcelain shop Wing on Wo Co. These connections demonstrate how Chinatowns function as vital, interconnected local economic systems.

7Streaming and Production Details

The series is now streaming on Apple TV, with the first two episodes currently available. Produced in collaboration with Twofour, the show follows other food-centric content on the platform like Omnivore. It is scheduled to run through December 18, featuring various acclaimed chefs, restaurateurs, and members of Lum’s own family.

8Legacy and Future Impact

Ultimately, the series serves as a reflection on the resilience of Asian American food culture. By bridging the gap between her great-grandfather’s historical efforts and contemporary culinary trends, Lum examines what it takes to master traditional flavors while ensuring that the heritage of immigrant entrepreneurs continues to thrive today.

Original article: Condé Nast Traveler — Awkwafina Explores Asian American Culinary Heritage in New Apple TV Series